People were also a little tired and sick and so Jai bought bananas and oranges for those of us who had been struggling to eat. I usually avoid citrus fruit due to suffering migraines and I dislike bananas immensely, but I knew I had to eat something and fruit you can peel is a good idea here. I ate my first orange in about 15 years and actually enjoyed it, this was a win! I dropped a couple more hydralyte in my bottle of water and sat back to enjoy the journey, rock and effing roll.
Arriving in Tordi Garh we were intrigued for our first experience of more rural Indian village life. The hotel we stayed at (Tordi Garh Hotel) is the renovated palace of the former local royal family. The rooms we had, on the front of the building, were very spacious with amazing air con (which was definitely needed). They were basic (no TV or fridge) and you are pretty much off the grid here in terms of wifi, but it was for one night only so, you know, #firstworldproblems and all that.
More of an issue for me was the plumbing in our room, we had no water at all through our taps (like, literally, taps on full bore, not a drop). So we used the plentiful and cheap bottled water and a number of wet wipes (the other major sponsor of our tour) to freshen up. Stupidly we didn't mention this to the rest of our group until later when they all said "why did you not just come and shower in our room?" and we realised it was a dim thing not to check (and also, how awesome were our trip buddies for offering?!). The next morning we had water again (albeit cold) so it wasn't an issue. Showers in India are cold most of the time (in our experience) but when it is over 40 degrees outside this is not usually a problem.
Shortly after arriving in Tordi we ladies got beautiful henna done by a wonderfully talented local woman, she was so quick and steady with the brushes it was remarkable and it was a joy to watch her in action. This was something I had wanted to do for a while and I was very pleased with how it turned out.
My Henna
Henna being applied
After the henna we went for a village walk and met all the kids and people who lived around the former palace, this was one of my favourite parts of our tour, interacting with the locals for a quick game of cricket (the game ended abruptly when the ball went for 6 through an upstairs window of an empty house). Cricket is not just a sport but a religion in India, the kids might not speak as much English as those in the cities but they know ALL the names of Australia's cricket team and the excitement on their faces when you want to play with them makes you realise quite how entitled and spoiled western kids are - all these guys want or need is a ball and some makeshift wickets to be exceedingly happy with their lot.
Dean bowling for Australia
Our group with the cricket kids in Tordi
During this game of village cricket (and before the ball was totally lost) there was a close encounter with a bull. The ball at some point went over into a closed off courtyard between the houses which Emma and I were stood next to the door of. A small child quickly unbolted the door and shot in to retrieve the ball, he ran back out and left the door unlocked at which point we realised there was a large bull staring straight at us from inside the courtyard. He eyed me and Emma peering at him a bit stunned, saw his escape route and began charging towards the door. We somehow managed to shut and lock the door quickly before he reached it but it was undoubtedly another "Oh, India" kinda moment.
We then went for a camel cart ride into the sand dunes - for some reason I took this picture of me with a camels arse, I think it was the dehydration kicking in.
Our camel cart
Once we reached the sand dunes I sort of lost my mind for a moment or two as tiredness and the extreme heat kicked in. It was nearly sunset so it was starting to cool off, but I had now been feeling unwell for over 24 hours and was weak as a kitten and the very, very, last thing I wanted to do was climb up a sodding sand dune at this point. As Stu can attest, I have VERY little patience with sand at the best of times (ironic as we live at the beach). I dislike the way it sticks to everything, the feel of it and especially trying to walk in it. I hit my own mental wall at this point - but as with everything in India (or so it seems) it panned out well in spite of this.
I climbed the first part of the dune but then decided I had had quite enough so I sat where I was while the rest of the group climbed further up to a vantage point. Within a few minutes the son of the camel cart guy ambled up and joined me. He was 4 and allowed me to practice my (terrible) Hindi on him. He was very chilled out for a small child - they usually unsettle me but he was pretty awesome and patiently waited while I consulted my 'Handy Hindi for Dummies' sheet of phrases to figure out his name and age and so on. Then the pair of us sat in mutually agreeable and content silence and watched the sun set for a good 20 minutes. It was so incredibly peaceful and allowed me to just gather my thoughts and breathe and enjoy the moment, it was exactly what I needed at that point in time and I will never forget it.
To top it off the wonderful guy from our hotel suddenly appeared at the top of the hill too with masala chai and frickin' cookies (for real!). All was suddenly OK with the world.
That night we sat on the rooftop of the hotel and I ate some rice and a small amount of dahl and then the rum came out and we played some music and chatted about the day. Unfortunately, both Stu and I spent that night up and down being ill. We were not the only ones to have trouble sleeping though, rather amusingly, Bina and Isaac had got the air con stuck on 16 degrees in their room and couldn't sleep due to the COLD. Unbelievable when the temperature outside didn't drop much below 30. At 4am they went outside to get warm. This provided much mirth the next day on the bus and there is a hilarious photo somewhere of both of them wearing pretty much all their clothes in the room.
And so to Agra...
I have to say that the hotel in Agra was my favourite of the entire trip. It had a great shower with plenty of hot water, wifi available (in reception), a TV with BBC World Service and a kettle/fridge. Perhaps this was indicative of the fact that it was also the most text-book-touristy place we visited, a wonderful quote from Jai about Agra which will stick with me and sums this up was that "if it wasn't for the Taj Mahal, nobody would even piss in the direction of Agra".
Agra is very disorganised in terms of roads and traffic, it is also utterly besieged by hawkers and is a strange mismatch of modern chain hotels and falling down buildings. It is clear that it runs entirely on the tourist $ and it was the first place on our trip where I felt a bit overwhelmed by the attention that we got as tourists. It is very hard to continually ignore a small child who has terrible cataracts and is pleading with you to just spend 100 rupees (about 2 dollars) on whatever he is selling. Fair play to Dean who bought 5 small elephant key rings off one child as gifts, only to demand an exchange for one which was "faulty". Much banter and amusement on the bus about that and the child in question gave as good as he got too.
On the first evening in Agra Jai took us to a fabulous rooftop bar with view of the Taj Mahal, many selfies were taken and a few cold beers went down a treat, it would be hard to find a better view from any bar in the world. From this vantage point we could also see the monkeys of Agra moving across the rooftops and settling for the night and the sky was full of kites from the kids playing out in the evening sun.
The Taj Mahal is indeed as beautiful and impressive in real life as it looks on TV. We saw it at up close at sunrise (the only time Isaac managed to get up this early) and the group wore the Indian clothes we had bought, resulting in some pretty cool pictures and strange looks from the other tourists.
Nadine became a minor celebrity here due to her red hair, she had queues of people taking photos of her and wanting their photo taken with her, she took it in her stride.
The story of how and why the Taj Mahal was built is very romantic and it is hard to believe how old it is, given how pristine it looks. It was finished in 1653 by Shah Jahan for his favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal in testament to his grief over her death and continuing love for her. Interestingly she was one of 3 wives, but the only one he married for love - he had 14 children with her, whereas his other two (political) marriages bore no children.
The good thing about getting to the Taj Mahal before sunrise was that it wasn't too hot, as we were leaving around 8am the massive tour groups from other companies were just arriving and it was getting very busy and very hot. Definitely one worth the early start for.
Late in the day, after breakfast and much needed massages and sleep (and very tasty local samosas shipped in by Jai for lunch) we headed back out to see the Baby Taj and Agra Fort at dusk. Although impressive, these were nowhere near as beautiful as the Taj Mahal itself. I always think Cambodia's Angkor Wat made all other temples seem a bit 'meh' in comparison and I reckon the Taj Mahal does that in India. You simply have to see it for yourself.
After Agra Fort we went to a rooftop restaurant and I nipped to the loo (unisex) only to find the chef himself emerging looking half asleep. On entering the toilet the smell of weed was so strong I nearly passed straight out. Clearly the chef was not hampered by his substantial pot habit as the chicken biryani I had here was incredibly tasty. A novel aspect of this restaurant was that the terrace had treetops all around it and throughout our meal monkeys were jumping about above our heads. I collected around 10 mozzie bites during this meal too, doing my bit for the local wildlife with my delicious blood.
Back at the hotel, rum party #1 kicked off in style. I love the way Jai, our tour leader, was able to procure ANYTHING at any time of day or night via the thriving black market. A guy had sidled up at the restaurant table earlier and taken his order and returned on a moped with 2 bottles of rum a little later. I seriously believe you could buy a granny, an AK47 or a bouncy castle from the wide boys of India without too many questions (not that I am suggesting you would need all 3 at the same time, mind you).
Rum party #1
This party set the tone for other rum parties to follow - someone would volunteer their hotel room (usually us as it turned out) and then at a set time everyone would bring their chairs and glasses from their own rooms and the laughter would commence. Highlights of this particular rum party included:
- The christening of Isaac as 'Campy Segundo' following a rather effeminate latin american dance recital.
- Emma getting very upset when the rum ran out
- Stu describing the Taj Mahal in a very phallic way and leaving Jai literally laughing until he cried. I don't think Jai will ever look at the Taj Mahal without smirking ever again.
Next morning we were leaving Agra for Alipura which involved a train ride for the first time, so we headed to bed not too late and the Agra chapter of our trip was complete.
Part 3 - Alipura and Orchha to follow....
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